Germany - more than Riesling

Lundi 9 Juin 2008, 13:30 GMT+2Par Jürgen SteinkeCet article a été lu 365 fois

German Riesling is in fashion these days. More and more people especially from U.S. and England buy the fine wines from Dönnhoff, Keller, Haag, Prüm etc. The dark side of this success story is the problem of higher and higher prices. But that´s not new. We see this trend everywhere for the best wines.

But who knows, that Germany is also perfect Pinot Land? I mean Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc and Pinot gris? You think this wines are not worth talking about? Well - than you should taste the good examples. I am pretty sure you will be surprised.

"Revolution" is a big word for sure. But I think it is quiet accurate to describe what has happened over the last 15 years here in Germany. Young people took over properties from their fathers. Often this young guys worked at fine French wine producer for some month or even years - and came back with better knowledge and new ideas. And suddenly the wines tasted quiet different. They are obviously made from riper fruit. But they are not fat or sweet - they also gained freshness and finesse. Sometimes I had to look on the label again to asure me that this is a German wine indeed and not a dream.

Let´s first talk about German Pinot Noir. I won´t go so far to say that German Pinot Noir can compete with the best Musigny, Chambertin and Vosne Romanée. But in some recent Blind Tastings with very good Bourgogne the German Pinots surprised quiet everybody. Even more surprising - it was rather difficult to separate Germany and France. Conclusion? It is time to taste the good wines from Baden and Pfalz (and even from the Nahe).

To taste yourself look for this producer. The list isn´t complete - only examples:

Ziereisen, Efringen Kirchen • Johner, Bischoffingen • Dr. Heger, Ihringen • Martin Wassmer, Bad Krozingen • Huber, Malterdingen • Schneider, Endingen • Becker, Schweigen • Diel, Burg Layen.

Good Pinot is not only Noir. I think Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris are often overlooked - and frankly - I don´t understand why. It often seems that people only talk about Riesling and Chardonnay when it comes to superb white wine. But as Austrian Grüner Veltliner, German Pinot Gris (Grauburgunder) and Pinot Blanc (Weißburgunder) can be wonderful. Both wines (Gris and Blanc) exists as tank aged and barrel aged wines. The new generation of wine maker have learned to use the wood proper. When they began working with Barrique the aromatic of the wines were often dominated by Vanillin etc. These days are gone at the best estates. Very good Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris are a perefct alternative for Chardonnay. I like the tank aged wines a lot due to their freshness and pure expression of fruit. And especially the Barrique aged Pinot Gris are often very similar in taste and style to Puligny Montrachet.

The same producer I have listed for the red wines, produce more or less Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris, sometimes even a Cuvée of both grapes or with some Chardonnay. I think it´s time to taste this wines. I am courious to know what you think after this experience.

By the way: Thank you Francois Mauss for giving me the chance to write an article on this board from time to time. I am a German wine lover, 48 years old and a friend of the GJE. I drink fine wine for 25 years, I like good wine from everywhere and have no agenda. My French is very, very limited. I live near Freiburg im Breisgau, Baden.

As you see I write in English. As you see also my English isn´t perfect. I apologise for that. But I will comminicate with people from everywhere so I choose the English language.

I look forward to comments, discussion and critic.

All the best to everybody - cheers - Jürgen

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Laurentg dit	Je dois dire qu'un pinot noir très réputé dégusté sur Toulouse n'a recueilli qu'un suffrage limité (15/20) : Ahr - Meyer-Näkel – Spätburgunder S Goldkapsel 2001 (Lot 19/02). Pas séduit par les rouges de Markus Molitor. Attentif aux pistes en pinot noir, blanc et gris ... Lundi 9 Juin 2008, 15:47 GMT+2 \| Retour au début
Mauss dit	At GJE we have developped a real love for the wines of Huber. They are very fine, with a spicy side of high quality. Nothing heavy. And the Man is so charming and friendly. During our trip in Japan, we had the Martin Wassmer. Many times, this pinot noir was the best companion for typical japanese food like their so famous beef from Kobé. Lundi 9 Juin 2008, 19:41 GMT+2 \| Retour au début
Jürgen steinke répond	Lazrentg, I can´t talk about the wine you had. But I propose to try some others - I think you will have pleasure. By the way - 15 points isn´t such a bad score - at least in my book. Look - it is always a bit problematic to build an opinion on only one example. Mayer-Näkel is a well regarded producer - so you are right. Try a wine from Baden area or from Becker. Sadly the wines of the latter are pricey these days - even similar to Burgundy Grand Cru. Puuuuuh. Mardi 10 Juin 2008, 17:31 GMT+2 \| Retour au début
Laurentg dit	Jürgen, My experience with these german red wine is poor. I also tested two weak wines : --> Mosel "Markus Molitor Haus Klosterberg - Trarbacher Schlossberg - Spätburgunder Trocken Unfiltriert 2001" --> Baden : Knab Spätburgunder Endiger Engelsberg Spätlese Trocken 2001 Thank you for your post. I don't want to say that Germany is not able to produce reasonable (or googe or even great) pinot noir. But with Côtes de Nuits, the challenge is very hard Mercredi 11 Juin 2008, 11:00 GMT+2 \| Retour au début
JÃ¼rgen dit	Laurent, yes - I agree - the competition is pretty tough. As I said in my initial post - the best Grands Cru Bourgogne are out of reach so far - but with anything below the best German Spätburgunder can compete today IMO. I once talked with Michel Bettane about the issue - as we all know one of the best experts of Pinot Noir we have - and while he didn´t say that Germany produce something as good as DRC or Rousseau Chambertin i.e. he agreed that he had some Spätburgunder which are superb. I hope you once will have a German Spätburgunder you like. Or a Pinot Blanc/Pinot Gris. Mercredi 11 Juin 2008, 16:04 GMT+2 \| Retour au début
Noreen rudolph dit	Oui il faut vraiment dire les allemands fait des grand progess. mais il ne faut pas oublie il ya pas que la mosel ou baden etc. en franconie il ya des vins super interessant des pinot blanc et gris, pinot noir. mais en verra ca dans une degustation qui va ce deroule cette année Pinot Noir la franconie meets la france !! Mercredi 11 Juin 2008, 23:41 GMT+2 \| Retour au début
Jürgen Steinke dit	Noreen, absolutely - the Franken area is also very interesting. I mentioned only a few examples, but almost everywhere in Germany you can discover surprisingly good wines these days. In Franken the estates Rudolph Fürst and Horst Sauer are very interesting - ibut again these are only examples. A complete list would be very, very long. Jeudi 12 Juin 2008, 10:46 GMT+2 \| Retour au début
Laurentg dit	Je dois bientôt goûter, avec le club toulousain In Vino Veritas, la gamme Mûller-Catoir sur 2007. Il y aura (entre autres, hors Riesling) : * Haardt Weissburgunder Kabinett Trocken * Haardt Scheurebe Kabinett Trocken * Haardt Muskateller Kabinett Trocken * Herrenletten Weissburgunder Haardter Spätlese Trocken * Herrenletten Grauburgunder Haardter Spätlese Trocken * Mandelring Scheurebe Spätlese Haardter Feinfruchtig * Rieslaner Auslese Gimmeldinger Schlössel * Rieslaner Beerenauslese Haardter Herzog I remember a very good Pfalz - Müller-Catoir – Rieslaner Haardter Herzog Auslese 2004. Samedi 14 Juin 2008, 16:38 GMT+2 \| Retour au début
Jürgen Steinke dit	Laurent, this is quiet interesting - please let us know what you think after the tasting - especially about the dry wines (trocken). Samedi 14 Juin 2008, 18:43 GMT+2 \| Retour au début

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